Restaurant Atelier
Olibe Balzac’s first excursion was to Restaurant Atelier in Glebe - French/European cuisine, SMH Chef’s Hat recipient 2007, rated well at Eatability. They have a mid-week 3-course deal for $60 - not bad for a place that’s a bit fancy-schmancy.
It’s a cute little white house on Glebe Pt Rd, with dark red interiors and shiny dark wooden floors. But who cares, right? It’s about the food. And possibly the service. And whether the staff are fazed if you tell them there’s a cockroach crawling up their wall…
Fortunately, Atelier had good food and service… to a point.
We let them know ahead of time - as they request you do - that there was a vegetarian in the party. Still, when we mention our 3-normal-and-1-vegetarian booking, there is no recognition of this from the staff. I am brusquely informed that they have this entree (tomato tart with goat cheese), and this main (pasta with cream-and-truffle something or other)… and that’s it.
“I’ll take that then!” I reply.
I figure it’s me making the imposition. As I’ve mentioned before, French cuisine doesn’t lend itself to veggie friendly options and I knew what I was getting myself into by coming here. Besides, so long as this one option is good, who cares?
At the outset, we’re given palate-exciters (whatever they’re called in French) - in this instance, a mighty tasty garlic soup. And, yes, the flavour is exciting - hopefully a sign of things to come.
The tomato tart is pretty damn good too, I must say.
Tomato Tart
Tomatoes are among my favourite things in the world and they were used inventively in this entree - a caramelised piece is layered with one that is only lightly braised, and they’re topped with the soft cheese. The trio of flavours and textures is a really yummy combination. So far, so good.
The pasta arrives in a tight sort of curl, which reminded me of how Bernard in Black Books insists that all fancy food must be presented in a cylindrical arrangement (even soup). It had several different kinds of cream, including a rather frothy-looking kind (mmm, soap suds…?!). One of these creams had truffles in it, not that I could tell - partly because I’d never tasted trufflfes before and, hence, couldn’t identify them (so much for that distinct, $100/kg flavour), and partly because of the seventeen different kinds of cream in the dish.
The pasta itself remind me of - and don’t shoot me for saying this - something closely resembling two-minute noodles. And then there were the endives which are bitter as a Paul McCartney’s divorce. Look, it isn’t bad - it’s edible, albeit bland - and I’m hungry so I eat it all (except for the endives which really do have an ear-waxy aftertaste).
But, on the whole, the one-and-only vego main is a little bit of a kick in the teeth for one who dares to choose food that didn’t once have a face.
In stark contrast, omnivores have a menagerie of creatures to choose from a la carte. It includes quail, rabbit, venison, pheasant, squab - all those animals you imagine 18th century British aristocrats would eat by the fireplace after a day’s hunting. I’m guessing this is why all the people on Eatability like the place so much.
Still, at least I have a choice when it comes to dessert.
I choose the creme brulee…
Creme Brulee
The coolest part about it is, you see that stripe of sauce down one side? It’s a sweet olive sauce! If you’re feeling adventurous, it’s well worth a try. I dig it. The creme brulee itself is okay - doesn’t rock my world, but it’s fine. Toffee’s a bit burnt though.
My friends have the day’s dessert special - caramel souffle with whiskey sauce…
Caramel Souffle
…and one other thing from the menu - the Hazelnut, er, thingamajig…
Hazelnut, er, thingamajig
So, yeah… dessert is rather nice.
Overall: Atelier was fine. Was it worth $60 when I can get amazing food for half the price (or less) and have a choice thrown into the bargain? Obviously not. Still, I’m glad I have some empirical evidence to support my cuisines theory. French = not really worth the bother.
Review review: This piece lacks inspiration, but is rich in laziness - an apt approach to the subject matter.